How To Give Your Dog Medicine Without Causing Any Damage

The simplest and most common way to give medicine to dogs is by mouth, unless you’ve purchased a newer version of medicated chews, you will have to fight your dog to get him to take medication.

The pet owner will be called upon to perform this task at some time or other, so it is advisable that he master the basic technique at the earliest opportunity.

In giving a dog a pill, the animal is first placed in a sitting position. The left hand is then put over the bridge of the ani­mal’s nose, and with the thumb from one side and the fingers from the other, gentle pressure is applied to the animal’s cheeks so that they press against the teeth of its upper jaw.

The pill is held between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. While the pressure of the cheeks against the teeth is maintained with the left hand, the dog’s mouth is gently forced open with the middle finger of the right hand.

Ordinarily the dog will not attempt to close its mouth because it would be biting down against its own cheeks. The pill is then quickly thrust far into the mouth onto the roof of the tongue.

The dog will then swallow the pill by reflex action. This can be encouraged by tickling the throat region from the outside, with the thumb and the forefinger, after the mouth is closed.

It is best to administer liquid medicines in a small glass vial or bottle when you give medicine to dog.

With the animal in the sitting position, the open end of the vial is placed in the pouch of loose skin between the animal’s teeth and the corner of its lips (buccal pouch).

The medicine is given slowly, and the speed of administration should be gauged by the rapidity with which the animal swallows. Care should be taken not to have the dog’s head

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raised too high. Ask your veterinarian to demonstrate these simple procedures.

In addition to giving give medicine to dog orally, the veterinarian may administer medicines by way of the rectum; on, into, or un­der the skin; into the nose directly or by inhalation; into mus­cles, the trachea, veins, joints, and the spine; and on mucous membranes.

o Give a Dog a Liquid Medicine

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Tail Docking And Ear Cropping How TO’s

dog tail docking explainedTail docking and ear cropping are performed either to meet certain show standards or simply to improve the appearance of an animal. They bear no relation to health.

In regard to tail docking, the amount of tail to be removed depends either on show requirements for the particular breed or on personal preference. The best age at which to perform the operation is when the animal is a couple of days old, although it can be done at any time during the animal’s life.

At the very early age, however, the tail docking is very simple, is accompanied by very little pain or hemorrhage, can be performed without anaesthesia, requires no sutures or bandages, results in very rapid healing, and seldom has any undesirable consequences.

At a later age at least local anaesthesia is necessary, bandages and sutures are required, some pain and annoyance are invariably encountered, heal­ing is slower, and infection, though quite uncommon, is much more likely.

As for ear cropping, the amount of ear to be removed also depends either on show requirements for the particular breed or on personal preference.

The best age at which to perform this operation depends both on the breed and on the animal’s state of health. The best time to operate on Danes, Dober-mans, and Boxers is when they are ten or eleven weeks of age.

Bostons, Bull Terriers, Toy Manchesters, and others may be operated on when they are four to six months of age, if the conformation of the ear is the usual one for the breed con­cerned. If the conformation is unusual, it may be necessary to operate at an earlier or at a somewhat later period.

In contrast to the tail docking, ear cropping is a major surgical operation, performed un­der general anaesthesia. In some techniques the cut ears are merely bound with adhesive tape, without the use of sutures. But the more common approach is to stitch the cut ear, and after a couple of days to have them bound in wire splints un­til healing is complete and the stitches can be removed.

A third technique, which the author prefers, is to stitch the ears with a dissolvable suture material and then paste them to­gether in a standing position on top of the head. The latter technique requires no bandaging and all the aftercare can be performed by the owner. This method is also accompan­ied by the least amount of discomfort to the animal.

Often the ears will not stand after healing is complete. But if the operation was properly performed, the ears will stand erect after the cartilage develops. If the ears do not stand by the time the animal is nine or ten months old, it is unlikely that they ever will.

In such cases no amount of taping, rolling, or stretching will do any good, and only corrective surgery can remedy the defect.

Dogs that have their ears cropped must be in a vigorous state of health, because good health will result in proper de­velopment of ear cartilage which is essential in causing the ear to stand erect; poor health might result in deficient devel­opment of ear cartilage, in which case the ear might never stand erect.

If it is determined that the animal’s health is not as good as it might be, it is advisable to get the animal into proper condition before the ear-cropping operation can safely be performed.

Tail docking and ear cropping are at best inhumane whims of fancy. While it is true that tail docking or ear cropping do often improve the appearance of an animal, they also seem to give it an artificial freakishness.

It is hoped that we can some day arrive at standards based on the natural attributes, and not have to resort to cosmetic surgery. The issue will come to a head only when an informed and sufficiently outraged dog-loving public will raise its voice toward the abolition of these barbarous and unnecessary practices.